Dahshur & Saqqara: Learning about the origins of the Pyramids
Author: Julius Vazquez | Last updated: December 7, 2023
In January 2023, I went to Egypt for 9 days. I spent 3 days in Cairo. On the 1st day in Cairo, I learned about the evolution of the pyramid structure which chronologically took me from the Step Pyramids of Djoser built in the 27th century BC in Saqqara to Pharaoh Sneferu’s Bent Pyramid and Red Pyramid built in the 26th century BC in Dahshur. These pyramids are an excellent introduction setting the foundation for pyramid construction prior to seeing the last surviving ancient world wonder The Great Pyramids of Giza built during the reign of Pharaoh Khufu’s (Pharaoh Senferu’s son).
For my adventures, I started by visiting Dahshur because these pyramids were the most southern and furthest location from my hotel. During the drive to Dahshur, I was surprised to pass by such a lush area that was filled with groves of Date Palm Trees like a desert oasis.
Afterwards, I went to visit Saqqara which is the largest archaeological site in the country including the Bent Pyramid, Southern Tomb, the Tomb of Kagemini, and Pyramid of Teti. You could also fit in The Great Pyramids of Giza the same day, which is around 40 mins from Saqqara, but there is already so much to see at the first two spots!
Dashur to see the Red Pyramid and Bent Pyramid
Red Pyramid
Dashur is famous for showcasing the second iteration of pyramids, built during the reign of Pharaoh Sneferu in the 26th century BC, beginning the transition to “True Pyramids” that resemble how we imagine pyramids to be like today. The first pyramid I visited was the Red Pyramid, which can be seen as the refined version of the Bent Pyramid that I visited next. From the very first glance, the Red Pyramid looks like a real pyramid with smooth sides and consistent angles of inclination. It gets its name because of the red color of its stone, though its casings used to be pure white limestone.
I walked around exploring the exterior of the pyramid for around 20 mins and made my way to the entrance to embark on my journey to go inside my first burial chamber at the Red Pyramid. Walking to the entrance was a bit of a challenge. The initial part of the staircase had a manageable incline with large stone blocks, but as I ascended it grew steeper and there were only some fragile wood railings to hold onto. When I reached the top, I found myself a bit out of breath and took a break to savor the sweeping panoramic views that unfolded around me. Before venturing inside the pyramid, there are guards stationed at the door to inspect if you have a ticket. Be sure to get your ticket at the ticket booth; otherwise, you will be denied entry and have to make a trip back to the entrance.
I was in for a surprise as I ventured inside the Red Pyramid as it was much more challenging than the climb up. My path led through two narrow and cramped antechambers. The journey inward began with a descent down a wooden staircase where I had to bend my knees and slowly walk down while holding on to the wooden hand rails on each side. In this constricted space that seemed designed for just a single person, I realized quickly it was intended to be a two-way staircase. Navigating through this passage required some creative maneuvers reminiscent of a contortionist act, as fellow adventurers and I contorted our bodies to find a path past each other.
After descending to the bottom of the first antechamber, there was a space where I could stand before I encountered another staircase I had to climb leading to the second antechamber where space grew tighter once again. When I finally arrived at the main burial chamber, I was a bit disappointed. The chamber was not very elaborate and looked like the rocks and chamber were not very well preserved. The room was incredibly hot and the room smelled like ammonia which made it hard to breathe. While the experience of walking inside a burial chamber held its own allure, the views left much to be desired. To exit I went back the same way. My tour inside the Red Pyramid took around 30 mins. If you are claustrophobic or sensitive to unpleasant odors, I would recommend considering alternatives, as there are other burial chambers that offer a more comfortable experience and better views.
Bent Pyramid
A couple mins away is the Bent Pyramid. In the distance, I caught a glimpse of the Black Pyramid that is aptly named because it looks black. Tourists are not allowed to approach this pyramid, but I managed to zoom in with my camera for a closer look and snap a memorable shot.
The Bent Pyramid stands out with some of the most well-preserved fine linestome casings of any Egyptian pyramids. It was fascinating to see its unique bent shape, a testament to the ancient Egyptians’ architectural evolution during the construction of the Red Pyramid and ultimately the Pyramids of Giza. The pyramid is bent because the architects discovered the pyramid was structurally unsound during the construction process and had to adjust the angle to be more gradual to stabilize the structure.
I opted to skip entering inside the Bent Pyramid because I was told it was a similar experience to the Red Pyramid and frankly I already was a bit tired from the first climb. That said, the journey to the Bent Pyramid’s entrance was surprisingly manageable, thanks to a sturdy, well-constructed wooden staircase.
As I circled the Bent Pyramid’s exterior, I made sure to get a close up view of the casing stones that were much more well preserved than the Red Pyramid. There is also a small satellite pyramid next to the Bent Pyramid.
Near a landmark outside of the Red Pyramid, I was approached by a guard who offered to take pictures. After taking a few pictures, he immediately asked for money! I was a bit naive and forgot if someone does something for you in Egypt, they will ask for a tip. I initially gave him a $1 tip after a few snapshots, only to find he expected more. Reluctantly, I increased it to $3. Afterwards, there was a guard on an all terrain vehicle following me and asking if I wanted a tour. Based on my experience I felt moments ago, I had to say no.
After these encounters, I definitely became much more cautious on how to handle these situations. My advice is try to find a fellow tourist to take a picture for you or use a selfie stick. I relied on this more often as I did not want to constantly be tipping. Interestingly, I later discovered that compared to other areas, the guard’s approach was relatively gentle where there were varying intensity of such encounters throughout Egypt.
Overall I spent around 90 mins exploring the Red Pyramid and Bent Pyramid at Dahshur. I felt this was a good amount of time to go inside the Pyramids and walk the grounds.
Saqqara Necropolis
Step Pyramid
Saqaraa was the necropolis for the ancient Egyptian Capital, Memphis. It has Egypt’s oldest pyramid, the Step Pyramid (or more formally known as the Step Pyramid of Djoser) and is the largest archaeological site in the country! There are more than 500 coffins discovered in the area and ancient cheese was even discovered here.
Surrounding the Step Pyramid is the Netjerikhet Funerary Complex that houses many more historical sites to discover. To get to the Step Pyramid, I passed through the Saqqara Entrance Hall, which is a grand rectangular building with a small and narrow entrance. Inside, I was impressed with how well preserved the row of 40 columns were considering it is dating back 4,000 years.
When I finally passed the entrance, I was immediately struck by how beautiful the Step Pyramid was with its cascading square layers. It was constructed over 7 phases starting initially as a mere square base. Over a span of 20 years during the 27th century BC, this structure gradually evolved to incorporate burial chambers, culminating in the iconic form we see today. The Step Pyramid was believed to be built by the architect and Egyptian Chancellor Imhotep for the Pharaoh Djoser. It marked a pivotal shift in the design of royal tombs and monuments.
Accessing the interior of the Step Pyramid was much easier as I only needed to walk down a staircase that was well paved. On the wall there is a black stone plaque commerating the 14 year restoration project for the Step Pyramid that was completed in 2020.
Inside the Pyramid, there were metal bars supporting the inside of the antechamber. The walk was more comfortable and easier than the ones in Dahshur since here I was able to even stand up mostly straight for most of the walk. The path to the main burial chamber was quick, taking less than five minutes. The main burial chamber looked more well preserved than others I had seen and had a long chamber where you looked down to the tomb. In total, I spent around 15 mins inside the Step Pyramid.
When walking the exterior of the Step Pyramid, there are eye holes that you can look into to see a life-size statue of Pharaoh Djoser, where he is said to be looking out to his kingdom and Pyramid.
The Southern Tomb
My next stop was visiting The Southern Tomb which is believed to be the burial chamber for Pharaoh Djoser’s internal organs. On my way, I was greeted by breathtaking views of the sky reminiscent of picturesque scenes from a movie.
Descending to the depths of The Southern Tomb was relatively simple as the beginning is a well paved stone stair case. To get to the bottom to see the burial chamber, there is a spiraling metal staircase that I thought felt quite sturdy to walk down. The best part is there were not really any crowds when I visited. I spent around 15 mins exploring the Southern Tomb.
The Tomb of Kagemni
The final stop for my tour in Saqqara was visiting The Tomb of Kagemni and Pyramid of Teti where I spent around 30 minutes.
The Tomb of Kagemni, a high-ranking official in Pharaoh Teti’s court, was where I first encountered remarkably well-preserved hieroglyphics both inside and outside. Venturing inside, I was captivated by the enduring colors still visible on some of the reliefs. It is believed the row of people depicted here were intentionally defaced as punishment, so that they would be deleted from history and made unrecognizable. The area inside the tomb was very crowded so brace yourself for the large crowds!
Pyramid of Teti
Right next to the tomb, I visited the exterior of the Pyramid of Teti which was built in the 24th century and is the second pyramid ever to have hieroglyphics. Over the centuries, the outside of the pyramid now looks like a small hill.
Overall, I spent around 2 hours exploring Saqqara. There is so much to see, so if you have extra time, I would highly recommend spending more time here.
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